Sunday, January 24, 2010

The Factory of Fashion

The 28th edition of modefabriek, Amsterdam’s biannual fashion retail fair, was already pretty busy Sunday morning only a few hours after the opening. The crowd that traditionally consists of buyers, fashion professionals, journalists and other fashion addicts, was treated to a broad selection of national and international brands. Everything from classic to casual and from luxurious to streetwear can be found at modefabriek, which each year proofs to be a true Luna Park to those who just love clothes. We especially enjoyed this years design platforms 'Cutting Edge' and 'Next' : both areas are filled with the greatest (young) trend-setting designers of today and true promises for the future.

One of the surprises at ‘Cutting Edge’ was Leonie Smelt who showed her 2009 graduation collection of the Willem de Kooning Academy in Rotterdam. The collection, called ‘Kaleidoscope Eyes’, is inspired by the typical diamond shapes and features unique one-of-a-kind handmade pieces made out of leather, plastic, fleece line and golden laminated details. All together it created a magical, geometrical and feminine collection. Leonie was once an intern at Dutch designer Iris van Herpen and the resemblance in high level innovative fashion can definitely be seen.

Also once working together with van Herpen was ‘Hat Designer of the Year 2007’ Irene Bussemaker, another designer at ‘Cutting Edge’. Bussemaker’s hats are absolute artpieces who will make every women wearing one feel special. Even though she is already a well-known and much appreciated milliner outside of Holland, she was very happy with all the positive responses she is receiving from the Dutch audience at modefabriek.

Men’s fashion also got their share at ‘Cutting Edge’, with Danish designer Jean // Phillip showing his 7th collection. After showing at the Copenhagen Fashion Week, Jean Philip hopes to reach out to the rest of Europe now. Though his style seems to be rather androgynous at first sight, it turns out he just created a complete new look for the modern man when we take a closer look. Luxurious fabrics like leather, silk and wool create a ‘simple with something extra’-feel, according to Jean Phillip himself. Designed for men who feel comfortable with themselves, Jean Phillip Homme is sophisticated with an edge. Also showing their menswear is OntFront, founded by Liza Koifman and Tomas Overtoom. Their Winter 2010/2011 collection ‘Shift Gear’ is casual and chic, inspired by Lamborghini concept cars. Not only the shapes and lines of the car can be seen in the collection, gears are also actually knitted in the garments.

Another pleasant surprise at ‘Cutting Edge’ was Miss Bibi, showing her jewellery collection. Her pieces are playful, feminine with great attention to detail. Her rings decorated with shoes and hearts are already iconic pieces; adorable, pretty and funky all together. We want one!

Just as funky as Miss Bibi is Pieces of Art, knitted jewellery designed by Tanja van Wijk. Her designs are just as surprising as her choice of material, very innovative yet classic at the same time! Love it!

Another favourite at modefabriek is definitely ‘Belgium presents…, curated by Label’. The area is filled with fashion, accessories, gadgets but also featured a modern dance performance. All together the Belgium platform is a beautiful, inspiring and relaxing experience in the midst of the sometimes overwhelming fashion playground that is modefabriek.

Also seen at the modefabriek: Bachelor 2010, presented together with fashion recruitment & consultancy agency HTNK. The Royal Academy of Arts The Hague was the winning academy to present their most promising students: Nicolaas Hein, Geo Timmerman, Jalta Evers and Lotte Mostert. All of their collections are innovative and amazing in their own way, a true pleasure to see! We especially enjoyed the sophistaced pieces by Jalta Evers' ‘Face your Fear’ collection.
Pictures from top to bottom:
modefabriek, overview
Leonie Smelt with her collection Kaleidoscope Eyes
Hats by Irene Bussemaker (left) and Jean//Phillip with his designs
Rings by Miss Bibi
Tanja van Wijk and her Pieces of Art
Dance performance at Belgium Presents...
Bachelor 2010 with design by Jalta Evers in front
All pictures by Maria Rudnaya
Written by Lisa Goudsmit


Nanna & Jelle @ Ganbaroo PR PR

wrapped up

Morena @ Petrovsky & Ramone





Esther @

Sushi can be fashionable too



After painting her icons and fashion alter ego’s for many years at home, Mimi Nizan thought it was about time to expose her work to her audience. “It’s very exciting, I always paint for myself, but now everyone can see them!” Mimi gets her inspiration from her daily life, and favorite fashion magazines. “Of course I get influenced by the current fashion trends, but I never think before hand what the painting will be about.” The artworks show surrealistic Barbie’s, dark girls in unrealistic settings, with a feminine and rock & roll attitude. “My dream is that inspirational illustrators as Piet Paris or Laura Laine would buy one of my paintings, they’re only 300 euros, which I think is pretty affordable.”

You can view the art works of Mimi Nizan at concept store Mixt Baby, Ferdinand Bolstraat 145



With an outstanding collection Denise Esser graduated from the Rietveld Academie in July 2009. Today she is presenting her collection at SPRMRKT during the Amsterdam Fashion Week Downtown program. Initiator of this event 'Future Perfect' is Joyce Bidouzo pr agent of agency Courdray. "When attending the last Rietveld Graduation show, I directly spotted Denise's enourmous potential. I met her after the show and we got along almost instantly!" Coudray fast secured several PR post such as Volkskrant, Glamour, Italian Vogue and Het Parool, and got international exposure through famous blogs as,, Diare Pernet's ASVOF and even Kanye West's blog. "After a brainstrom with AIFW late 2009, I thought it would be great to use the Downtown promotional platform to introduce a rising designer as Denise Esser." With a huge sponsor as Absolut Vodka and a stunnig venue as SPRMRKT the event 'Future Perfect' was born.

“We have spotted her work before at the Beurs of Berlage and knew this would be something we wanted to support during fashion week. Denise’s collection is raw, but contains innovation and a good sense of materials at the same time. It reminded me of the collection by Iris van Herpen which we showcased before, except that Denise’s collection is more feminine and subtle.” says the creative director of SPRMRKT, Anne Marie Kramer.

“My collection Future Perfect is based on the concept of transformation. With new materials I wanted to lay emphasis on the contradiction between hard and soft and the changes and process between these two. The constructions have to form an illusion of a jewel or accessory, this time not worn with the clothes, but attached to them.” Denise targets her collection at strong sexy women, who are a bit more tough and want to make a statement. “With exhibiting these 14 looks I am curious about the responses from the audience, some of them are very wearable, others may be more difficult.”

For more information about Denise Esser, please contact her PR Agency; Coudray. Joyce Bidouzo, 0031-206206402, 0031-643184287,,



Rebellious, feminine, fun, raw and intense are words that describe the young generation Mylou Oord pin points in her photography. This fashion week FOAM museum feautures a series of photos by this 21 year old fashion photographer.

Pure photos of fashion icon Aynouk Tan are spread around the third floor of the museum. “FOAM wanted a collection during fashion week which was of the current, but also specific for their museum. Colette Olof had spotted me during a Blend portfolio night and approached me about this unique collaboration.” Mylou says; “Aynouk has been a friend for a long time, and during the special relationship we have, I’ve always taken photos of the most intimate moments we find ourselves in, some obviously posed, others just a snapshot.”
“It was exciting for us, to expose such a young artist. But after seeing her portfolio it was worth to take that risk, and I am glad we did it!” thus Colette Olof (FOAM).

“It is very overwhelming to see these photos of myself. I would never show images like this to others, but this is me through the eyes of Mylou.” Aynouk Tan reacts when just entering the exhibition. “Very confrontational to see yourself in so many different moods and situations, for me, every snapshot has its own story, and they now all come so close.” says Aynouk. But she looks very proud and compliments Mylou on her work with a big hug.



What used to be a store of the fashion label Individuals, is now a Statement Store called BY AMFI. The space at Spui 23 in Amsterdam, now shows a preview of the collection “The Porcelain Papillon” which will be launched on the catwalk later this fashion week.

“The aim is to change the concept of the store every ten weeks” manager Orpheo Jungst tells me. “By AMFI contains 75 percent of exhibition space and 25 percent of sales point for the label Individuals. The changes are made very raped but hereby we want to transform this store into a diorama, a magnifying-glass showing the work of the AMFI students.”

“There is a lot of talent within AMFI” say the institutes’ director Liesbeth in ‘t Hout. “I believe this will now be a good teaser for the Individuals label, but also a terrific platform for all the great work that is been done within the Amsterdam Fashion Institute.”
BY AMFI, Spui 23 Amsterdam, is opened every Tuesday till Saturday 12.00 – 18.00.

photos: collection & Orpheo Jungst