Thursday, July 15, 2010

ABN Opening Soiree: Iris van Herpen S/S 2011

The 13th edition of the Amsterdam Fashion Week has now been officially open! With a special opening event, sponsored by ABN-AMRO, two designer labels will enter the spotlights of the catwalk to present their commercial and creative development and reveal the steps they need to take to make it international. Tonight Spijkers & Spijkers and Iris van Herpen showed their new collections.

Iris van Herpen S/S 2011 'Crystallisation'
Iris van Herpen, a young woman of 26 years, already have blown away the international fashion world with her technical and highly conceptual fashion creations. She works with unusual materials like rubber, leather, metallics, chains and even plastics, and creates fashion that is called 'musea-worthy' by the audience tonight.
Tonight she have shown us an exclusive preview of her latest collection, called Crystallisation. Ten looks - all sexy minidresses made of skillful leather construction - formed the basis. But there was so much more to it. A unique cooperation with architects Benthem Crouwel - made by order of ARCAM - inspired her to conceptualise the concept of water: soft and fluid like water versus hard and mathematic structured ice-cristals. Frozen waterfalls were wrapped around the models bodies or integrated with her technical leather creations.

The show started with a vibrating sound, the audience literally drilled of high expectations. Then, a big videoschreen shows us a naked woman's body, waterfalls and splashing water agains her skin. A model presents herself in the lights of the video, dressed in a frozen waterfall, made of molded transparent plastic, and dissappears again. The sound of falling waterdrops and electronic music of Salvador Breed bumps out of the speakers. It's showtime for Iris van Herpen. Immediately, when the first models enters the runway, the fashion crowd sheers and applauded, you could feel the drill and enthusiasm on their faces. Van Herpen used also video on the runway itself, the image of an identical model followed her footsteps, like a cape that's tailing her body. Spectacular!
The models walked in specially made shoes, an cooperation with United Nude, which looked dazzling high. And the hair of the models even were decorated with twinkling frozen water drops. The whole show was one, clear and well composed presentation.
One item in particular shows how Iris van Herpen re-inventing herself with new ways of creating fashion. She made one showpiece with a 3D-printer, a futuristic new way of printing objects, mostly used by architects. Van Herpens 3D-printed showpiece rests on the shoulders of the model and looks like a sculptured bolero top.

Van Herpen explained before the show that she feels fashion is far behind if it comes to new techniques, materials and construction-methodes. She looks further than only textiles or natural materials. She sculps her fashion, like an artists.

We have asked some first reactions of the fashion crowd. TV-Host Arie Boomsma said that even he doesn't know a lot about fashion, he feld Iris van Herpen is one of a kind in this world. He was blown away by her creations. Andrea van Pol called the show powerful, original and elevated. She admires how Van Herpen is so original in a fashion world where everything is already done before.  The collections makes you wonder how it is made, and what it is what we just saw. Some other visitors called it dynamic, esthetic and fluid.

Well done and congratulations Iris van Herpen with this great, great show. Thank you for giving the Dutch audience this sneak preview for Londen Fashion Week.


Written by Marij Rynja - maryscupoftea- , backstage photo's by Chelsea Syrett

No comments:

Post a Comment