SPRMRKT & HTNK'S Dutch Warehouse

Under it’s own roof SPRMRKT threw an event in collaboration with HTNK. The ground floor of SPR Specials at the Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal is now home of the pieces of several intriguing designers. For two months the SPR Special clothing has to make room for this pop-up-store concept furnishing the store.

C.CRUDEN

‘I’ve spend one and a half year designing the perfect boyfriend jeans, I was frustrated that women wore those big jeans without any shape, so I wanted to make a boyfriend jeans that accentuates the bottom and shapes it’, thus an excited Sammy Cruden, designer of C.Cruden. Next to the jeans hangs a fabric bag with a plastic holder, ‘My inspiration is everything. I had this idea for a bag and when I was walking my dog I saw this piece of plastic from a bag, the ones you get in a store, I pieced it together and voila’. 

It seems that behind every item of this designer lies a story. Even a size ‘none’ (because: unisex) white shirt turns out to be quite remarkable when Cruden tells that it comes with a special dye-kit. When bored of your white shirt, you put on your face mask and transform your shirt in another colour. Also in little boxes available; a leather lace and a button ring. ‘Both are for multiple use, that’s what’s important in my clothing the ability to wear it in different ways’.

CONNY GROENEWEGEN

The style of Conny Groenewegen is described as androgyne and feminine. An odd combination at first but Groenewegen explains how those two can perfectly go together, ‘I see feminine as being vulnerable and dynamic, a woman has to be able to move in her clothing, it’s not about being comfortable but it’s about giving the body room to move. The other side is androgyne, right-angled and strong. Maybe they are the opposites of each other but that makes it so interesting to put them together and create something that is both’. 

Groenewegens pieces are a play of feminine and vulnerable versus androgyne and powerful, ‘That’s the most important quality of my clothing, a transparent dress with strong shoulders and big cufflinks’.  

 

ELSIEN GRINGHUIS

The in 2008 at Artez graduated Elsien Gringhuis has a thing for geometric shapes. The black satin shirt she’s wearing is from her own hand, ‘Everything I design has to be something I would want to wear’. The constructed clothes of heavy material appear to be rough but often contain a subtle detail.  

Photos by Vincent Kos

Written by Karin Aalberts

Opening DOWNTOWN AIFW

The usually not so charming neighbor of Maison de Bonneterie, the Olieslagerssteeg, had a big upgrade today at the official opening of the Amsterdam International Fashion Week DOWNTOWN. Instead of being used as a shabby shortcut, the Olieslagerssteeg transformed into an actual catwalk. Carrying a whole lot more than the ordinairy tourist sandals.

Eight designers (Non by Kim, Roparosa, Intoxica, Ado Les Scents by Hyun Yeu, Individuals, Marloes Blaas, Dagmar and Daryl van Wouw) showed notable pieces from their collection to an eager and overheated crowd. Remarkable were the shoesocks of durable fashion pioneer Intoxica by Kentroy Yearwood, that also launches the Green Fashion Competition upcoming Friday the 16^th. 

Also the yellow menswear of Ado Les Scents by Hyun Yeu stood out as well as the sharp shapes of Project Catwalk winner Roparosa by Roos van der Kamp. 

Hyun Yeu was already known for his daring colors, but seemed to hit a new high with his almost fluorescent yellow blouse. Asking him about his choise for yellow and Maison de Bonneterie he says, ‘it just feels good’. Looking at his clothing for the warehouse, that is by the way now available at Maison de Bonneterie aswell as the pieces of the other designers, that might be just the right description.

The pieces of Roparosa were more modest than the ones we saw on television when she won the television competition Project Catwalk. Explaining that she says, ‘my first collection was a statement collection. That was part one, these are pieces from part two. This part contains more commercial buyable and comfortable pieces that are perfectly suitable for Maison de Bonneterie’. The big shoulders and geometric shapes are still key ingredient to almost all of her pieces, ‘I want to make well-made and comfortable clothing as well as powerdressing’. Roparosa’s new collection named ‘Come out and play’ is released July 18^th and the name for the collection is one to take literally, ‘I wanted to make outside clothing that screams that thought’.

‘I’m sweating only looking at these clothes’ was a not so strange comment when looking at the pieces Individuals put together for Maison de Bonneterie. Considering the unusual tropical heat that is harassing the entire country, wool and coats don’t seem to be the most appealing treats. Nevertheless the pieces are stunning as usual, ‘The clothing suits Maison de Bonneterie, the students that designed this collection made amenable and wearable pieces’, tells Loek Coerwinkel of Individuals.

 

That’s how it’s done. A truly inspiring and successful (despite the lack of a permit to create a catwalk in an alley, none of the models were chased by the police) opening event. Bon apetit, fashion-eating folks.

Photos by Vincent Kos

Written by Karin Aalberts

SIS by Spijker & Spijkers

Great news! The schedule isn't released yet but we can already inform you that Spijkers & Spijkers will open AIFW at the ANB AMRO Openingsoiree! They will present their new line: SIS by Spijkers & Spijkers!

AIFW recap

Bibi van der Velden – Wearable Pieces of Art

…...

This is me speechless.
Everything about the closing show of Amsterdam International Fashion Week, sponsored by Samsung LadyPhone, was just perfect. Jewellery designer (no: ARTIST) Bibi van der Velden produced an absolutely breathtaking collection. And not only that, the whole concept of the show was amazing: the models, the music but most of all the lighting. As the whole room was slowly filled with smoke, a huge spotlight suddenly lit the room creating this surreal, hologram-like, smoky bundle of light in which the models one by one appeared. The whole setting created a magical, powerful, cinematic image that amazed the audience; I sure heared a lot of ‘oe’ and ‘aah’ in my surroundings!

It is hard to explain the pieces that make this collection, because they can not be pinpointed as ‘necklaces’ or ‘bracelets’. They can better be defined as headpieces, armours and blown up jewellery pieces, or as the designer described them herself: wearable pieces of art.

We saw shoulders decorated by giant ‘shoulders pats’ (did Lady GaGa already see these?) and unbelievable necklaces of glass bubbles. There were silver headpieces resembling the shape of headphones and one model’s head was completely covered by decorative stones, creating a fashionable Damien Hirst-like artwork.

Bibi van der Velden experimented with glass, bronze and stones among other materials to create exclusive, hand-made pieces for this show. Some designs can be described as glamorous, others as futuristic or extravagant: but they were all mind-blowing and innovative for sure!

It was amazing to see how the designer used her experience as a sculptor to create these artpieces. One could also tell that her inspiration comes from travelling around the world: African and Asian influences give an extra twist to the designs. She also seemed to be inspired by knights: traditional armours and headpieces that used to protect the body were now translated into beautiful, futurustic jewellery like an amazing armour-like belt and headpiece resembling the medieval body-protection.

Bibi van der Velden is an absolutely unique designer: the standing ovation she received from the audience after she came out with topmodel Yvke Sturm was so well-deserved!

Like I said: this was pure perfection. A perfect closure to a week filled with the most exciting, innovative and beautiful runway shows. Thanks to all the sponsors, designers, organisation, designers, models, producers, visitors and everybody else this was again a very successful Amsterdam International Fashion Week. Get ready for AIFW Summer 2010!

Merle Deterink and her new Samsung phone

Photos by Aram Goudsmit, except first and last photo by Maria Rudnaya

Written by Lisa Goudsmit

The People & The Party, Part Deux

Photos by Maria Rudnaya

Replay

Replay has been a household name for years already, but they are still improving themselves every season. Tonight they showed their new collection in a packed room: "Seattle sound, grunge style, mixing and matching, comfort and love for details are the key concepts for Fall/Winter 2010-11”.

With their specialty being denim of course, it was clear where the main focus was on. Jeans were shown in many ways: baggy, slim and cargo shapes, but also long jeans, skirts, jackets and very short hotpants. The classic indigo blue is mostly dark, but as always Replay showed some innovative washes and amazing details. Studs are still popular, as the label keeps on rocking their street-smart and cool style.

Denims were combined with plaited skirts and tops and floral patterns for women: feminine but still tough. The cowboy-look was clearly still a source of inspiration, combined with motorcycle elements like leather jacket and studded (thigh) boots. Cardigans with Alaska-style knitwear added to the wintery feel of the outfits.

The menswear collection had the same edgy character as the female version with plaited shirts, motor jackets and army print cardigans. All outfits were strong, powerful and nicely styled, as we expect it to be of this high-standard brand.

The audience seemed to love every bit of it, especially when the last model made her appearance: the well-known Victoria’s Secret face Ana Beatriz Barros. Replay did it a again: a strong, exciting high-quality collection.

Photos by Aram Goudsmit

Written by Lisa Goudsmit

I want a Beick Bike!

Spotted outside the runway venue: Beicks. The new concept from Beick is a combination of ingenious and contemporary design, which allows customers to create their own bike online from a choice of more than 5 million different variations. Everything from handlebars to saddle and from tyres to luggage carriers can be individually picked, always creating a truly unique bike. After choosing your design you can always continue to update your Beick.

We love it. We want one. Pink with flowers and glitters. Now.

Merle Deterink of AIFW with her Beick

AIFW Team Loves Sorel

That quality and sustainability doesn’t necessarily mean boring proofs Sorel: the Canadian cool boots are getting more and more populair nowadays. Not only outdoor-lovers, also movie stars like Brad Pitt and Kate Hudson wear their Sorels with great pride! The most populair model, the Caribou, is already a classic but we also love the Joan of Arctic!

Sorel embodies honest and unpretentious footwear, combining style and comfort. Many fashion-victims, like Bastiaan van Schaik and Jetteke van Lexmond, were spotted wearing their Sorels during Amsterdam International Fashion Week. The organisation of AIFW were extremely happy to slip into their Sorels in between shows: high heels are great, but in the typical Dutch icy weather, Sorel definitely saved the day!

AIFW's Merle Deterink (r) and Stéphanie Floor (l) wearing the JOAN OF ARCTIC™ by Sorel

Claudia Sträter

Claudia Sträter is thé brand for confident women: the designs are timeless and elegant and make women feel in control. Because it is designed for active ladies, the clothing is chic but still very comfortable. Even though Claudia Sträter is 100% Dutch design, it has an international allure that would appeal to women around the world.

The show started with models in a lot of black and leather: elegant but cool. The silhouettes throughout the show remained very powerful; the Claudia Sträter-woman is sexy without showing too much skin. Each item is beautifully made with a great eye for detail: high standard as we expect it to be. Basic colour like black, brown and beige are lit up with touches of vibrant red, sea blue and the occasional animal print. The basic designs leave room for individual interpretation and invite women to mix and match. Claudia Sträter is very now, but also very tomorrow: this is timeless fashion at its very best.

Photos by Maria Rudnaya

Written by Lisa Goudsmit

Ado les Scents

I don’t need many words to describe Hyun Yeu’s new collection: it was simply amazing! With his label Ado les Scents he produces mature, sophisticated and innovative menswear with an edge. He described his collection Rain as one “based on having fun on a rainy day. Playful yet chic.” The main item is the coat, that was executed in a variety of shapes and materials.

To me the Korean Yeu truly is one of the biggest innovators in menswear today. He is not afraid to give his designs an androgynous touch and to use materials like wool, denim, velvet ánd fur. Using basic colours like black and grey and combining them with orange and silver details, the designs get a timeless but trendy look. We are already looking forward to his next collection…

Photos by Maria Rudnaya

Written by Lisa Goudsmit